Victron (#TeamBlue) Advanced Systems + VRM - How We Done It -

[Soundz]

@ Samro
Sam what is the big fan?...........Bud I re read your earlier post to me.mate I didn't think you were overcomplicating......i'm just very humble and am big enough to own you Del and Rids..and all the other posters in this thread understand and know more than I................Ha but I'm hell bent on learning Sam. it just takes a while for me to understand ...ya'll
Forgive me at times while I play catch up and ask stupid questions...................I have to get this right Sam,it's my lady's dream.

I can't really test anything yet mate,I'm still pondering making up a baffle in ali to force some of the air up through the fins on the back of the B2B as well as blowing behind and around it.

Sam how can I paint ali black...matt black in one coat.no etch primers or faffing one coat to absorb heat?

Oh soddit I'm telling everyone any way......... my roamer battery is coming on wed or thurs.....I'm too excited for words

I don't know if a thermostatic switch is necessary mate.????? .......from the vid and victron if the B2B runs most efficient at 25C then in winter maybe one wants the gizmo to warm up to 25 and then the fan steps in keeps it from getting silly hot and scaring the bejeppers out of me or maybe makes the B2B run in the most efficient way possible?



@ Dellmassive.......Dell it's not about me being correct.. I carry little ego mate..... it is about me learning from you guys and trying to work out the best way forwards...how to get the most out of what I have....Del watch the first bit of vid.more efficacy at 25...shouldn't that be what we aim for .lol ha ha in an ideal world not under a poorly ventilated seat base in a van that has temp shifts from X to Y........I'm digging at the base stuff Dell because if one sorts the base then one is working within the best plausible parameters within our non idea worls.IE Ii give the gizmo the best chance to do it's job............does that make sense mate

Not about being correct though

take care both cheers for the help

 

[Samro]

@ Samro
Sam what is the big fan?...........Bud I re read your earlier post to me.mate I didn't think you were overcomplicating......i'm just very humble and am big enough to own you Del and Rids..and all the other posters in this thread understand and know more than I................Ha but I'm hell bent on learning Sam. it just takes a while for me to understand ...ya'll
Forgive me at times while I play catch up and ask stupid questions...................I have to get this right Sam,it's my lady's dream.

I can't really test anything yet mate,I'm still pondering making up a baffle in ali to force some of the air up through the fins on the back of the B2B as well as blowing behind and around it.

Sam how can I paint ali black...matt black in one coat.no etch primers or faffing one coat to absorb heat?

Oh soddit I'm telling everyone any way......... my roamer battery is coming on wed or thurs.....I'm too excited for words

I don't know if a thermostatic switch is necessary mate.????? .......from the vid and victron if the B2B runs most efficient at 25C then in winter maybe one wants the gizmo to warm up to 25 and then the fan steps in keeps it from getting silly hot and scaring the bejeppers out of me or maybe makes the B2B run in the most efficient way possible?



@ Dellmassive.......Dell it's not about me being correct.. I carry little ego mate..... it is about me learning from you guys and trying to work out the best way forwards...how to get the most out of what I have....Del watch the first bit of vid.more efficacy at 25...shouldn't that be what we aim for .lol ha ha in an ideal world not under a poorly ventilated seat base in a van that has temp shifts from X to Y........I'm digging at the base stuff Dell because if one sorts the base then one is working within the best plausible parameters within our non idea worls.IE Ii give the gizmo the best chance to do it's job............does that make sense mate

Not about being correct though

take care both cheers for the help

The big fan is just the one you refer to in your post. (#82 on thus thread).
This is great, albeit too big to fit exactly where I want it in my install.

 

[Samro]

The big fan is in and some tweaks made on the control front.

The blue arrows show the airflow which led to the positioning of the fans.


Fans are switched by the ignition feed, but the big fan only comes on when my water heater is on. (I figured that this is the main time that my DC-DC will continuously be in bulk without the DC-DC getting some sort of rest and i don't want the noise from the fan all the time.)

I also changed my wiring so that the water heater relay runs via the "Relay 2" ports on the Cerbo. This is cool because Victron improved the Victron App to allow manual control of the relays:


So when Relay 2 is off, the water heater and "big cooling fan" are off, but when Relay 2 is on, they are switched by the ignition feed.

 

[Soundz]

the above looks like the Orion is cycling on/off as the starter battery voltage rises. ( Auto VSR feature? - charger seeing starter battery voltage rise to the switchon point - regardless of H/L pin setup)


+++++++

there was an error in early install guides

the link between H & L is for remote AUTO mode. ( closed it ON/AUTO)

View attachment 164907


+++++


or



++++

you can have H or L connection, ( H referes to HIGH volts ie 12v trigger and L is for LOW or 0v trigger)

so eithe give the H pin a switched _+12v for ON,

or

give the L pin a switched 0v ground signal.


both with the LINK removed.


View attachment 164908




.
..

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Orion-Tr_Smart_DC-DC_Charger_-_Isolated/Orion-Tr_Smart_DC-DC_Charger-en.pdf

@Dellmassive.............,can I take my 12V " H " trigger from the leisure batt not the van batt.simply as a means to switch the orion off? Will that override the engine on detection?

many thanks

PS woke up an ordered your temp sensing relay to have a bash at running me fan that way...............which leaves me with a switch on the dash wired in to Lbatt . becoming redundant if temp sensing relay gizmo works out .

Soooo, I'm pondering said switch being used on the H circuit.........hence above Q's

 

[Soundz]

The big fan is just the one you refer to in your post. (#82 on thus thread).
This is great, albeit too big to fit exactly where I want it in my install.

Ahh gotcha.ha that's kinda cool. didn't think anything I was doing or buying would be of use to you lot

 

[Samro]

@Dellmassive.............,can I take my 12V " H " trigger from the leisure batt not the van batt.simply as a means to switch the orion off? Will that override the engine on detection?

many thanks

PS woke up an ordered your temp sensing relay to have a bash at running me fan that way...............which leaves me with a switch on the dash wired in to Lbatt . becoming redundant if temp sensing relay gizmo works out .

Soooo, I'm pondering said switch being used on the H circuit.........hence above Q's

Providing 12v to the H pin will turn the DC-DC on. To do this permanently would have the same effect as unticking the option for engine shutdown detection, so it would be odd to take a feed from the leisure battery, unless it is switched from a relay triggered from an ignition feed and that would be utterly pointless and a waste of a relay!

If you simply want to switch the dc-dc via a switch, then all you need is a fit simple single pole switch in a loop between the H & L.

 

[Soundz]

Sam forgive me I'm not grasping it.....if the switch is between LB and orion......as in the manual 4.4 diagram b...page 13 then surely that brakes the 12V supply? ( if switched off)
I don't want it on permanantly?what I'm not understanding is why that supply needs to come from the starter batttery

I have fitted a single pole switch Sam .but it's got an LED( which also needs an earth),which I figured would need power....as the H and L loop runs less than 500Kohm that didn't seem an option is it?

 

[Samro]

Sam forgive me I'm not grasping it.....if the switch is between LB and orion......as in the manual 4.4 diagram b...page 13 then surely that brakes the 12V supply? ( if switched off)
I don't want it on permanantly?what I'm not understanding is why that supply needs to come from the starter batttery

I have fitted a single pole switch Sam .but it's got an LED( which also needs an earth),which I figured would need power....as the H and L loop runs less than 500Kohm that didn't seem an option is it?

What is it that you want to achieve?

 

[Soundz]

Just simply a way too switch the B2B off, Sam, manually.

 

[Dellmassive]

@Dellmassive.............,can I take my 12V " H " trigger from the leisure batt not the van batt.simply as a means to switch the orion off? Will that override the engine on detection?

many thanks

PS woke up an ordered your temp sensing relay to have a bash at running me fan that way...............which leaves me with a switch on the dash wired in to Lbatt . becoming redundant if temp sensing relay gizmo works out .

Soooo, I'm pondering said switch being used on the H circuit.........hence above Q's

Yes you can use the LB as a + switch H as it's reference to the chassis ground the same as the starter battery.

 

[Soundz]

@Dellmassive........Cool thank you
Del Sam thanks both for your time and patience

 

[Dellmassive]

I'm loving the the 2.41 firmware update on the mppts.

Where it shows stats on the front page.....

 

[Samro]

Just simply a way too switch the B2B off, Sam, manually.

Won't a simple switch between L+H be an easier way to achieve what you want?

 

[Samro]

I'm loving the the 2.41 firmware update on the mppts.

Where it shows stats on the front page.....

View attachment 165394View attachment 165395View attachment 165396View attachment 165397

And also and a firmware update for the Smart Shunt too.

 

[Dellmassive]

It does it with the smaller units too..... 75/15.

 

[Dellmassive]

And also and a firmware update for the Smart Shunt too.
View attachment 165398

Oh that's well sweet...

The Victron kit just gets better and better.

Love it.

 

[Skyliner33]

I'm loving the the 2.41 firmware update on the mppts.

Where it shows stats on the front page.....

View attachment 165394View attachment 165395View attachment 165396View attachment 165397

And also and a firmware update for the Smart Shunt too.
View attachment 165398

Chest checked mine.



It appears I only own 1 device now. Hmmm strange. I don't seem to have those updates either.

(Edit: Now it seems ok.)

Oh and I might sell my Orion charger.

 

[Dellmassive]

You need to go into the settings and run the FW update..... Product info.

.

Just re connect to each unit and it will move over to the own devices section.

 

[Soundz]

Won't a simple switch between L+H be an easier way to achieve what you want?

Sam I've used this switch : 734X - 19mm Round LED Rocker Switch 16A [ALM Part Reference - 734X] - £1.84 : ALM Solutions, Auto Electrical Parts and Accessories for Cars, Boats, Caravans and Campers

It's mounted on the dash in a vacant dash switch holder......it's ran around the back of dash cloth bound and down across the van floor where I've tapped the earth into an existing VW earth point.......then ran the +ve cables across the bus floor to the passenger seat base and me Dc fuse box which is situated here back of pass SB

_S2I2305 by Stuart Philpott, on Flickr

then tapped into big fan

Originally said switch was a manual way to make the fan I showed ya go on and off......................................but then Dell chucked that W1209 relay at me...........which makes said switch redundant......My thought process then turned to what use can I put to said switch IE can I use it as a manual kill switch for B2B...which you have told me can get so hot you fear it's dangerous..

Meanwhile while all that was going on I've refitted van mat cut it incredibly carefully.pulled all me cables through said holes even added a tad of dense foam packing so that roamer will sit silly snug ..painstaking cleaned every connection I can make bolted down SB's wired DC FB neg bus pos bus.MPPT..............trial fitted fuses cranked down walnut/oak isolator gizmo

_S2I2280 by Stuart Philpott, on Flickr

and fitted insulating hoods.which were a right PITA

So basically I don't want to undo all that........but I'm left with a switch on me dash that has no purpose

See if the mad temp relay and me big fan doesn't work......................... logically I then thought can I kill B2B stop it gettiing hotter with my redundant switch.......but me being me I want my ickle blue light to work as well on said dash switch.....if the HL connection does that I'm good...... but,I think I need the H connection to power said led and do the job intended

Sam........I've been at this build for maybe more than 18months.see me awkward thread IE here ...https://www.t6forum.com/threads/awkward-its-an-old-t5-not-a-t6.36289/

So I'm kinda itching to get stuff done now and play camping and me beasties.not go backwards

In a nutshell the logical easy way might not fit my circumstances right now

does that make sense Sam?

thanks for the help bud

stu

 

[Rids]

Looks a tidy on/off solution.

The PC case fan controllers & fans are designed to keep the fan ticking over slowly up to a programmable temperature then increase the fan speed proportionally with temperature up to a second value, also programmable.
The fans are also designed to run quiet even when at full speed.
Some controllers include an alarm Buzzer too…
these are some possibles I spotted…

Controller on ebay

fan on ebay

I’m gonna do this, after upcoming trip to Scotland. I’ll post a “how I did it”. Will have to make sure the sensor is well attached on the Orion heat sink and ideally not directly in the fan airflow.

I also want a convenient on/off for the Orion as it seems a bit mad to have it working away early mornings filling up the battery, ultimately using diesel as it’s energy source, on the many days when the solar will do it later anyway…
I’m imagining a a momentary push button, some sort of latching relay on the motor run signal. Press it once and it holds the Orion off until the the next ignition on/off when the relay would reset…. any thoughts?

Ok, so I dropped the semi automatic latching relay idea cos I realised it would drive me mad switching it off every time…. Just went for a simple switch between the motor run signal snd the H input.
The fan & controller are in and working fine.
I’m running the controller & fan direct from the , now switched engine run signal; the pair only take 0.1A at full speed and the fan is inaudible esp as it only comes on when the engine is running.
I’ll do a much filler write up in a couple of days but here a couple of pics…