Have you got a picture handy so I can see the brown wires? I'm just wondering if they are connected wrongly.
Help with getting my MFSW working
- Thread starter The Flying Scotsman
- Start date
As Lee points out, did you pick the live up from behind the dash?
Will post more pics tomorrow
Its fine, the wire from the light switch is the live feed
Yes that’s the one to the light switch.
How did you pick up +IGN from the lights? I remember when I did mine that I picked up +IGN from the SC fuse box because the relay at the light switch was different to the instructions and the company that supplied me the kit advised going to the fuse box or OBD port.
Worth measuring at the wheel to see if you’ve got +12v over the brown and black?
Worth measuring at the wheel to see if you’ve got +12v over the brown and black?
Here’s a pic here Kevin.
I’ve still got that engine management light on on the dash. That’s only appeared since I started working on this.
Also MFD says stop start error.
Do you think that’s something to do with it ?
The wires look fine to me. Maybe some other members might spy a fault. Checking for battery voltage at pin 10 of the yellow connector (black wire) would rule out a power issue from the light switch.
Does anyone know if the buttons should illuminate before the wheel is coded?? That way it could rule out coding issue. I will attach the 5 fault codes below for the experienced guys to cast an opinion on. Maybe it needs decoded to see if these faults go away. Then recode and see what happens?
Thanks Kevin.
I’m beginning to wonder if it’s something to do with the coding also.
I will check for power at the wheel.
Cheers, I think it's euro 5 that use pin 17, or at least that's how I interpret the diagrams. This is a euro 6 model
I’m testing the black wire at the light switch and it doesn’t seem to have any power. Where’s best place to use for a ground. I’m using the bolts on the door. The ones that aren’t painted. But might be crap earth. I’ve tried the bolts and metal around the steering shaft. Still no 12v.
So either there’s no power and I’ve a fuse out or I’m not getting a good earth on my test probe.
This could very well be the cause of the problem
Just checked the rest of the wires at the light switch plug and got a great reading off the red and black wire. So know the earth I’m using is good and definitely no power to the black wire.
Both the black wire and the red and black have been tapped into by the converter for something.
This black wire having no power is probably why I’m getting problems with my THQ lights also.
Both the black wire and the red and black have been tapped into by the converter for something.
This black wire having no power is probably why I’m getting problems with my THQ lights also.
Ground in VW is brown, not black.
That’s it guys. 
The black wire I was using as an ignition feed had come out of my connector.
The steering wheel is now working.
Thanks for all your help guys and a big shout out to Dundee Kev. I would never of managed without him.
The black wire I was using as an ignition feed had come out of my connector.
The steering wheel is now working.
Thanks for all your help guys and a big shout out to Dundee Kev. I would never of managed without him.
Nice relaxing roadtrip next week using cruise 
Enjoy
Enjoy
I can’t wait to get away in it now.Nice relaxing roadtrip next week using cruise
Just need to get this light problem sorted. I was sitting in the van with it running after you left. Lights on and working fine. Then I heard a click like a relay somewhere and the light out bulb on dash came on and the main rear lights went off.
I’m confident that whatever has been tapped in to the light switch is what’s giving me problems.
I’m waiting to hear back from converter who built it.
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