Beefing Up Your Vans Security - How I Done It -

I’ve got a padded bag, that my wife got from somewhere, and I store it in that between the seats where I have a little basket to put it in and it stays put. Fitting and removing it takes less than a minute and gives me peace of mind. Yes it’s heavy duty.
I would seriously consider where that pedal lock is going to fly if you are involved in a collision. I made a fixed bracket in the passenger footwell that secures my SafePedal.
 
I would seriously consider where that pedal lock is going to fly if you are involved in a collision. I made a fixed bracket in the passenger footwell that secures my SafePedal.
@DXX Yes, it’s a heavy bit of kit. I really should secure it properly. Added to my Winter task list. Thanks for the gentle push.
 
@SAF1981 & @Jwardy23

yep as above . . .

battery powered RING doorbell, it comes with a magnet already . . . so just sticks to the Bulkhead.

USB rechargeable too . . .


View attachment 158958

View attachment 158959


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i mainly use it for parking tickets and parking etc . . plus checking on the van.


you can do the same thing with your dashcam . . .


i have a BLACKVUE on the front screen too . . . . but that needs power, ( its still wired to IGN feed ATM, ill get round to moving it over to the LB at some point)

but it wont show the CAB, but will show if the vans being towed away . . . :slow rofl:

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example . . .

View attachment 158961

.
@Dellmassive how does the ring bell get a Sufi signal etc if it’s not near Wi-Fi at home, how do you view it on your phone etc

Cheers
 
@Woodman nice smooth welds there ;)

But for the rest of us, has anyone seen/got one of these? (The fact that it is the right colour has nothing to do with my interest :slow rofl: )

Security pedal Lock



edit: also found them here: atefabrications on eBay. Feedback seems good.
I have a DSG version of the ATE and I have a Disklok steering wheel lock. The Disklok gets used every time we exit the van, but the the ATE only gets used when we leave the van home alone for an extended period of time.

The ATE is a sturdy, well-engineered bit of kit and, IMO, a thief would find the ATE more difficult to defeat than the Disklok, but the ATE doesn't provide the same visual deterrence and it isn't as convenient to use, especially it putting it on/removing it multiple times a day - it's heavy and cumbersome, and we never found a convenient place to store it (the space between the front seats is where we store the Disklok).

HTH
 
Mine fits in the door pocket
It certainly fits easily enough in there, but I found that it was prone to clunking and sliding around, and, as has been noted above, it could do someone some serious damage were it to hurtle around the cabin during a collision.
 
Hey guys, much of what we have in place has been mentioned already. However, we also have two different strap solutions to prevent cab entry. Either strap both driver and passenger door handles to one another or individually from handle to the belt buckle, using an adapted dog strap. For both options put in place and leave the van from sliding door or tailgate / barn doors. Doors can not be opened, period. We have yet to use these solutions, but have them ready. Thoughts
 
Hey guys, much of what we have in place has been mentioned already. However, we also have two different strap solutions to prevent cab entry. Either strap both driver and passenger door handles to one another or individually from handle to the belt buckle, using an adapted dog strap. For both options put in place and leave the van from sliding door or tailgate / barn doors. Doors can not be opened, period. We have yet to use these solutions, but have them ready. Thoughts
The recent VW Assistance guy we had out had a strap.

It went from round the headrest, though a hole in the bulkhead to a load lashing eye that was screwed to the middle of the slider.

The idea being that the slider was closed, then ratchet to the front seat. All hidden.

That way there was no way for it to be opened.

He said that even thought the T6.1 had a different mechanism than the T6, it could still be smashed into.
 
Hi,
I have read all the posts with interest, and have a Stoplock, wheel lock and bollard.
I'm considering a pedal lock - see photo - is that one any good? (I am trying to balance cost against deterrent. I know there will be better, but at considerable cost)

In the old days I used to just remove a spark plug lead from my petrol car.
Having now got a diesel VW T5 is there something simple and cheap like that?
Alternatively what about a hidden micro switch to imobilise it?

pedal lock.jpg
 
A pedal lock is more to slow them down and give you more chance of disturbing them. Where they are fitted they are not an ideal deterrent as by the time they are noticed an amount of damage may have been done to gain entry. The better ones are powder coated bright colours and come with window stickers.
 
I've always thought window stickers served more to tell the scrotes to come back later suitable tooled up to deal with whatever device had been fitted.
 
@zippy1148, I don't know about that specific pedal lock, but you've got the right idea with your multiple-layers-of-security approach. To @roadtripper's point re visibility, hopefully your Stoplock will provide this, though it isn't as visible as, say, a Disklok.
 
Evening all,

Had a good read through this thread, loads of good info so thanks to all that have contributed to the benefit of us newbies catching up later.

Found this whilst specifically searching for info on bollards (which don’t seem to get as much air time as other options, presumably due to being so location specific), but in terms of home based physical security, to me nothing says “duck you” quite like a chunk of steel buried in half a ton of concrete. …they do however seem to vary a lot in quality/ruggedness, from cheap/just for show “not much more than a scaff pole” to fairly hefty 100mm box section that stand a chance of being fairly impassable.

I suspect as with most physical security the weakness with even the best of these is the locking mechanism preventing them just being lifted out, some claim to have “anti drill” mechanisms, but most of these seem to have the circular/tube style key that previous posts in this thread have advised against.

As with any steel based security the bigger and heavier the better is for granted, and whilst I’m not in the least bit put off by a bit of a civil engineering project to get it fitted I don’t want to waste a load of time/concrete fixing something in the ground that’s not up to the job! Anyone any experience of how effective these are in attempted/theft situations where they’ve either been pulled out, folded over or locks drilled/cut? Tubular or box section designs better?

Many Thanks, Steve.
 
just seen this on a local social media post. . .

"Saw a brand new vw van with all the side door looking like it had been attacked with a chain saw , total disregard for peoples property, I wasn't aware that it was as widespread as this...

Jimmy this is what they did to my vw Probably the same bunch"


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Saw a Transhit near where I live the other day, big flap bent back in the side door, looked like it had been opened with a tin opener.
 
Sounds like one method they use is to break in to homes and take the van keys with or without force... is one option to have a dummy set of van keys hanging in the hallway, then keep the actual keys elsewhere? Maybe the faffing about with dud keys outside will be confusing/annoying enough for them to then give up? Or at least give you time to prepare for 'follow up action'!
 
Sounds like one method they use is to break in to homes and take the van keys with or without force... is one option to have a dummy set of van keys hanging in the hallway, then keep the actual keys elsewhere? Maybe the faffing about with dud keys outside will be confusing/annoying enough for them to then give up? Or at least give you time to prepare for 'follow up action'!
Break-in is difficult to prevent, like smash 'n grab. Taking the van is a little easier to make difficult, even with the keys.
 
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